So, there I was standing next to my seat on the plane as we flew to Rome. A woman walked down the aisle and as she passed me she asked, "Are you staying in Rome?" I said, "No, I'm just passing through." She replied that she was going to Rome and had a tour lined up and was all excited about it. I told her that sounded good. "So where ARE you going?" she asked. "Istanbul." I answered. "Why?" she asked. "Because it sounds interesting," I answered. "Hmm, I don't get it," she said. I just smiled.
Besides the fact of awakening at 2 am and not going back to sleep, it was a pretty good day.
We spent a part of the morning walking around the Kadikoy area which is the eastern suburb or Istanbul. This place is so spread out that it makes Metro Columbus look compact, it also has ferry boats. The plan involved walking from the apartment to the ferry boat. That was about 20 minutes, then the ferry crossing to the "European" sector of the city called Karakoy. Karakoy was historically where the Europeans lived and conducted business, thus leaving the ancient, sacred sector of the city alone. On the way over via ferry our boat captain was apparently trying to outrun a supertanker plying the waters to our left. We had to pass them or wait, and our captain showed good judgement by waiting for the Super Tanker which was 100 times our size, to cross in front of us.
Off the ferry boat. Onto the wharf. Under the street for an underground/mall to avoid the traffic. The shopping mall is totally electronics sales, cell phones, TV's etc, save for one strange sight, lawn mowers and chain saws, sold by a hardware store. I haven't seen two square foot of grass in Istanbul. I have more grass growing in my parking spot at church than this entire city. Who would possibly want or need a lawn mower? And chain saws...Husquevarna's for you afficianados.
Our walk took us up and up into the higher reaches of the city. This is the old European area. Out destination was the Galata Tower; a fire-watch in ancient days. Just like a forest fire ranger, the old city would have men in this stone tower searching the city for fires and who would then alert the firemen. But, with the city being so crowded, we decided that all anyone could do if a fire was spotted was to point out the area from which the city began to burn. No way you could save a building or the town.
Today, the tower is a restaurant and look out. (See the photo of me and Ken having just returned from the tower and pronouncing the city safe from destruction.) We walked the outside balcony. 360 degrees and countless miles of Istanbul at our feet.
Nearby were many Counsulates and shops. We wandered down one street to the hotel where Agatha Cristie wrote Murder on the Orient Express (having passed a bit earlier, the train station where the Asian porton of the Orient Express officially begins.) No one seemed to ask why we were wandering this exclusive hotel without being a resident. People assume you have a purpose there when you have gray hair, plus not knowing the language I was able to ignore the shouting at me. A return to the suburbs on the ferry with the countless communters made the city less exotic and more like any other world-class city.
I told our friends that we'd take them out to dinner. And their choice was a place near where we are staying. Speaking of world-class....this city is world-class when it comes to restaurants and dining and we were not disappointed by the wonderful evening out.
But, below the restaurant, in a little grotto was a shrine to St. Catherine. This is an Orthodox site with sacred water, various icons on the wall and candles to light (one Lira).
Like any ancient city, it is built layer upon layer on top of the previous generation. Cultures come and go as war and religious devotion (sometimes one and the same) ebb and flow. Today Istanbul is modern and deep roots within the Muslim faith while maintaining a secular/religious balance. Yesterday Istanbul under the name of Constantinople was Orthodox and before that Byzantine in the Roman era. From the Galata Tower today we viewed modern Istanbul and saw some huge stone towers which the city has built around in order to accomodate a school and a hospital. I'm sure some historians know the story behind and underneath those towers. I imagine few if any of the tourists on the tower, like ourselves, had any idea, but there is a story in the dust somewhere.
Likewise, I'm not certain of the story as to why the restaurant where we ate tonight had Orthodox icons and holy water in the cellar. It doesn't seem like the owners of the fish restaurant would have said, "I know what will bring in the customers....an Orthodox shrine beneath the dining room!" And yes, I know that the shrine predates the restaurant, so they built over the shrine. In between the appetizer and the main course (grilled sea bass) Makaila and I went down to the grotto. For a lira we purchased a sacred candle and lit it, asking for a safe journey over the coming months. Thank you Saint Catherine.
Peace, Bob
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