Where the Rain Gets In

“Aqui?”
“Aqui?”
“Aqui?”
“Aqui?”
“Aqui?”
“Aqui?”
(Two Angolan guys joking around as they try to find the automatic “trip” for the hand dryer at the sink.)

It was mentioned by Makaila that of all the days to visit a church with NO roof, we chose a rainy day. But perhaps it was meant to be; that way we could experience the full effect of a cathedral with no roof.

　

Time in Lisbon is marked by one date, or so it seems. 1755. There was an earthquake. It destroyed much of the city and it also marked the zenith and a long decline in their fortunes as a naval and world-stage power player.

The Church of Our Lady of the Carmo Hill was build between 1389 and 1423. The ancient Gothic church was the largest and most important in Lisbon. It was seriously damaged by a earthquake in 1755 and this was followed by a violent fire. The historical brochure says that the church would be reconstructed in the reign of another monarch but that “operational and budget difficulties did not allow the ending of the works.” Judging from what we have seen, I would say the “operational and budget difficulties” did not allow for the beginning of the reconstruction.

Nevertheless, it is fascinating. One end of the church is enclosed and a museum has artifacts from various sources in Portugal. There is a model of what the church actually looked like also.

To reach the area of Lisbon we took the funicular. Sort of a tiny ski tram up the side of the western hill. It only takes a few minutes, but the steep winding street in that area made us glad we had taken the ride. We walked along in the rain, found the church, walked inside where it was still raining.

But our day had just begun, so afterwards we wandered into a coffee shop to see if the rain would stop and by the time the cappuccino was compressed we had clouds and no rain. I wanted a picture of the sanctuary where we had been the other day. This was another Lisbon church which was nearly destroyed by the earthquake and to this day looks like artillery has strafed the interior, yet they worship. I could not get a picture the other day because they were holding mass. And today they were holding mass again!

What goes here? I am trying to get a tourist picture and they keep holding mass in this cathedral. Come on Catholics, get with the program.

I stood way in the back. Took a non flash photo. Rome didn’t burn because of what I did. I gave a donation to Our Lady of Fatima and went off in search of the trolley to see the hillsides of Lisbon.

We were on this trolley the other day but it was so packed with people that all I saw was the cardigan sweater of the guy pressed in front of me. Today there were few tourists and we sat and enjoyed the up and down trolley car ride through the hills of Lisbon. At least we enjoyed them until we got to the western hills and the driver stopped the trolley, said some thing in Portuguese and everyone got off. First the Catholic priest conducts mass and then the trolley drivers observe Union rules and I am trying to get a tourist day in old Lisbon, didn’t the mayor get my memo?

We got off and wandered. I wandered into two Churches. One had two people praying. One was holding mass. I resisted taking photos in each but noted that they were but a few blocks apart but each was quite beautiful and I got the feeling that they were active parishes in their neighborhoods and I liked that. But to be lost in Lisbon is a singular delight for anyone. Just walk. If you walk down the hill, you will find the main area. If you wander the hills, you will find something delightful to capture your imagination and eye around every corner and hill. We did so, and we never disappointed.

Some years ago, I was in the hills of Panjim in Goa, west India which was a part of the Portuguese Empire. We stumbled across a shop where they were painting on tiles. I bought a couple intricately painted ceramic boxes. Today we came across the same sort of ceramics in a shop in Lisbon. I bought a couple ceramic boxes. Painted tiles are everywhere in Lisbon. Old tiles are a staple of the flea markets and new tiles are THE thing in building.

Lisbon has been a surprise delight.

Years from now, if I am alive and apparently just disappear from the face of the earth, you might try and look in Lisbon.

Peace, Bob